I’ve noticed that the RF power output from the Chinese radios can be quite variable from model to model, and even from individual radios of the same model & batch.
I’ve bought an RF Power meter (GY561) to do some tests on the HTs I have at present.
All tests were performed with the radio fully charged & still on the charging base, to make sure the supply voltage remained constant at 8.4v throughout the tests.
Frequencies used were 145.500 & 433.500 for VHF & UHF respectively.
The power meter was connected with ~8″ of RG174 Coax.
Here’s a quick look at a Sainsmart frequency counter module. These are useful little gadgets, showing the locked frequency on a small LCD display.
It’s built around an ATMega328 microcontroller (µC), and an MB501L Prescaler IC. The circuit for this is very simple, and is easily traced out from the board.
Frequency Counter
Here’s the back of the board, with the µC on the left & the prescaler IC on the right. This uses a rather novel method for calibration, which is the trimmer capacitor next to the crystal. This trimmer varies the frequency of the µC’s oscillator, affecting the calibration.
Input protection is provided by a pair of 1N4148 diodes in inverse parallel. These will clamp the input to +/-1v.
The prescaler IC is set to 1/64 divide ratio. This means that for an input frequency of 433MHz, it will output a frequency of 6.765625MHz to the µC.
The software in the µC will then calculate the input frequency from this intermediate frequency. This is done because the ATMega controllers aren’t very cabable of measuring such high frequencies.
The calculated frequency is then displayed on the LCD. This is a standard HD44780 display module.
LCD
Power is provided by a 9v PP3 battery, which is then regulated down by a standard LM7805 linear regulator.
Readout
I’ve found it’s not very accurate at all at the lower frequencies, when I fed it 40MHz from a signal generator it displayed a frequency of around 74MHz. This is probably due to the prescaler & the software not being configured for such a low input. In the case for 40MHz input the scaled frequency would have been 625kHz.
This possibly has the potential to damage the radio, if you transmit on a frequency it’s not designed for. Not to mention the legal issues with transmitting on frequencies that aren’t permitted! Use at your own risk!
Recently I decommissioned some networking equipment, and discovered the power supplies in some switches were single rail 12v types, with a rather high power rating. I figured these would be very good for powering my Ham radio gear.
They’re high quality Delta Electronics DPSN-150BP units, rated at a maximum power output of 156W.
Label
These supplies have an adjustment pot for the output voltage regulation, but unfortunately it just didn’t have quite enough range to get from 12.0v to 13.8v. The highest they would go was ~13.04v.
After taking a look at the regulator circuit, I discovered I could further adjust the output voltage by changing a single resistor to a slightly lower value.
Firstly though, a little background on how switched mode power supplies operate & regulate their output voltage.
SMPS
Here’s the supply. It’s mostly heatsink, to cool the large power switching transistors.
The first thing a SMPS does, is to rectify the incoming mains AC with a bridge rectifier. This is then smoothed by a large electrolytic capacitor, to provide a main DC rail of +340v DC (when on a 240v AC supply).
Mains Input
Above is the mains input section of the PSU, with a large common-mode choke on the left, bridge rectifier in the centre, and the large filter capacitor on the right. These can store a lot of energy when disconnected from the mains, and while they should have a discharge resistor fitted to safely drain the stored energy, they aren’t to be relied on for safety!
Once the supply has it’s main high voltage DC rail, this is switched into the main transformer by a pair of very large transistors – these are hidden from view on the large silver heatsinks at the bottom of the image. These transistors are themselves driven with a control IC, in the case of this supply, it’s a UC3844B. This IC is hidden under the large heatsink, but is just visible in the below photo. (IC5).
Control ICMain Switching Transformer
Here’s the main switching transformer, these can be much smaller than a conventional transformer due to the high frequencies used. This supply operates at 500kHz.
After the main transformer, the output is rectified by a pair of Schottky diodes, which are attached to the smaller heatsink visible below the transformer, before being fed through a large toroidal inductor & the output filter capacitors.
All this filtering on both the input & the output is required to stop these supplies from radiating their operating frequency as RF – a lot of cheap Chinese switching supplies forego this filtering & as a result are extremely noisy.
After all this filtering the DC appears at the output as usable power.
Getting back to regulation, these supplies read the voltage with a resistor divider & feed it back to the mains side control IC, through an opto-isolator. (Below).
Feedback Loop
The opto isolators are the black devices at the front with 4 pins.
Regulator Adjustment
For a more in-depth look at the inner workings of SMPS units, there’s a good article over on Hardware Secrets.
My modification is simple. Replacing R306 (just below the white potentiometer in the photo), with a slightly smaller resistor value, of 2.2KΩ down from 2.37KΩ, allows the voltage to be pulled lower on the regulator. This fools the unit into applying more drive to the main transformer, and the output voltage rises.
It’s important to note that making too drastic a change to these supplies is likely to result in the output filter capacitors turning into grenades due to overvoltage. The very small change in value only allows the voltage to rise to 13.95v max on the adjuster. This is well within the rating of 16v on the output caps.
Now the voltage has been sucessfully modified, a new case is on the way to shield fingers from the mains. With the addition of a couple of panel meters & output terminals, these supplies will make great additions to my shack.
Earlier today, one of my neighbours put their dishwasher out for the scrap man. After asking if I could appropriate it in the interest of recycling the Ham Way™, I was told it wasn’t draining. The engineer called out to fix it had claimed it was beyond economical repair.
A quick test showed that indeed the drain pump wasn’t operating correctly – very poor pumping capacity & a horrid grinding noise.
Drain Pump
Here is the drain pump on the bottom of the machine. Strangely for a dishwasher, everything underneath is very clean & free from corrosion.
Pump Rotor
On removing the securing screw & unlatching the pump from it’s bayonet mount, the impeller instantly tried to make a break for freedom – it has come off the splines of the rotor shaft.
In the past I’ve tried to remove these rotors manually – and totally destroyed the pump in the process. They are usually so well secure that replacement is the only option. This particular one must have vibrated off the shaft somehow.
This repair was easy – removing the rotor from the main pump body & gently drifting the impeller back onto the splines.
Repaired Pump
Here the pump is reassembled & ready for reinstallation.
On test the pump sounds normal, & works as expected.
I recently posted about a small analog SWR/Power meter I got from eBay, and figured it needed some improvement.
After some web searching I located a project by ON7EQ, an Arduino sketch to read SWR & RF power from any SWR bridge.
The Arduino code is on the original author’s page above, his copyright restrictions forbid me to reproduce it here.
I have also noticed a small glitch in the code when it is flashed to a blank arduino: The display will show scrambled characters as if it has crashed. However pushing the buttons a few times & rebooting the Arduino seems to fix this. I think it’s related to the EEPROM being blank on a new Arduino board.
I have run a board up in Eagle for testing, shown below is the layout:
SWR Meter SCH
The Schematic is the same as is given on ON7EQ’s site. Update: ON7EQ has kindly let me know I’ve mixed up R6 & R7, so make sure they’re switched round when the board is built ;). Fitting the resistors the wrong way around may damage the µC with overvoltage.
SWR Meter PCB
Here’s the PCB layout. I’ve kept it as simple as possible with only a single link on the top side of the board.
PCB Top
Here’s the freshly completed PCB ready to rock. Arduino Pro mini sits in the center doing all the work.
The link over to A5 on the arduino can be seen here, this allows the code to detect the supply voltage, useful for battery operation.
On the right hand edge of the PCB are the pair of SMA connectors to interface with the SWR bridge. Some RF filtering is provided on the inputs.
PCB Bottom
Trackside view of the PCB. This was etched using my tweaked toner transfer method.
LCD Fitted
Here the board has it’s 16×2 LCD module.
Online
Board powered & working. Here it’s set to the 70cm band. The pair of buttons on the bottom edge of the board change bands & operating modes.
As usual, the Eagle layout files are available below, along with the libraries I use.
[download id=”5585″]
[download id=”5573″]
More to come on this when some components arrive to interface this board with the SWR bridge in the eBay meter.
There are times when I am frequently away from home base, usually either on the canal system or at a festival. During these times it’s very handy to be able to just grab a bag, without having to be concerned about sorting everything out.
This post will only detail the portable shack bag. The power supply kit that goes along with it with be detailed in another post.
The bag I use is an VHS Camcorder bag from the early 80’s. It’s very well built, & copes easily with the weight of all the radio gear.
Total weight for this system is 13.4lbs (6kg).
Mobile Radio Bag
Above is the bag packed. Obligatory International Ameteur Radio Symbol patch front & centre. Being an old camera bag, this easily slings over the shoulder, with it’s padded strap.
Current Equipment
Here is all the current equipment laid out. All the equipment to enable me to set up a station anywhere.
In the following photos I will go into the details.
Main Radio
First off, my main radio. This is the same Wouxun KG-UV950P mobile rig I have posted about previously. I have heatshrunk the power cable to keep it together & attached my standard power connector to the end. More on these later on.
HTs
In the bag I also carry three Baofeng UV-5R handhelds. Extremely useful for short range site communications, along with their charger bases. The charging base on the right has been slightly modified to support charging of my main LED torch as well, which uses similar Li-Ion based packs as the Baofengs.
Baofeng 12v Charger
As the charger bases for the Baofeng HTs take a supply of 10v DC, I have constructed a 12v adaptor system for them. (Which utter prat of an engineer at Baofeng picked 10v?)
Linear Amplifier & SWR Meter
Also included is a small Alinco ELH-2320 35W 2m linear amplifier. This was given to me from the local HackSpace in Manchester. (They don’t have any ham members, besides myself). Also here is my small SWR & Power meter, SDR kit & a pair of syringes. These are filled respectively with Copaslip copper loaded grease, (very good for stopping fasteners exposed to the weather from seizing up), and dielectric silicone grease. (I use this stuff for filling connectors that are exposed to the weather – keeps the water out).
Tools
I always keep essential tools in the bag, here is the small selection of screwdrivers which fit pretty much any screw fastener around, my heavy-duty cable shears (these buggers can cut through starter cable in one go!) and my trusty Gerber Diesel multitool.
Magmount & Pi
Main antenna magmount & a spare Raspberry Pi.
Antenna, Patch Leads, Etc.
Finally, the antennas for the HTs, main dual-band antenna (Nagoya SP-45) for the magmount, a small selection of spare plugs, sockets & adaptors. Also here is a roll of self-amalgamating tape, very handy for waterproofing wiring connections (especially when used in conjunction with the silicone grease), & a roll of solder wick.
Now, the main power connectors of choice for my equipment are Neutrik SpeakOn type connectors:
Neutrik SpeakOn
These connectors have many advantages:
They are positive locking connectors. No more loose connections.
They have a high continuous current rating of 30A RMS.
Relatively weather resistant.
Also, they have two pairs of pins – and as some of my bigger non-radio related equipment is 24v, this allows me to use a single set of plugs for everything. Without having to worry about plugging a 12v device into a 24v socket, and letting out the magic blue genie.
Once everything is packed up, here’s the bag:
Packed
Everything has a neat little pocket for easy access. Some closeups below.
In my original review, I noted that this radio was supplied with a SO-259 socket for the antenna connection.
However I’m less than fond of these, due to their non-constant impedance, which can cause signal loss issues at VHF/UHF. Because of this, I’ve replaced it with a high quality N-type connector. These connectors are much better, as they are a constant 50Ω impedance, they’re weather resistant, and being rated to 11GHz, are more than sufficient for a radio that will only do up to 70cm.
RF Output Jack
Here can be seen the point where the connection is made to the PCB.
I’ve already replaced the socket in this photo. The pair of solder pads either side of the central RF point were soldered to wings on the back of the original SO-259. As there are a pair of screws, also connected to the ground plane, there have been no signal issues with just using the frame of the radio as the ground point. Shown below is the original socket, with the ground wings.
Original SO-259
Finally, here is the back of the radio with it’s shiny new N connector.
New Connection
Chassis mount connectors are pretty standard, so this new connector fits perfectly into the same recess of the original. Looks like factory fitted!
I am now standardising on N connectors for everything in my radio shack, next on the project list for conversion is the SWR meter I recently acquired.
Following on from my review, here are some internal views & detail on the components used in this radio. Below is an overview of the main PCB with the top plate removed from the radio.
Cover RemovedRF Final Amplifier Stage
Most visible are these MOSFETs, which are Mitsubishi RD70HVF1 VHF/UHF power devices. Rated for a maximum of 75W output power at 12.5v (absolute maximum of 150W, these are used well within their power ratings. They are joined to the PCB with heavy soldering, with bypass caps tacked right on to the leads.
RF Pre Drivers
Here is the RF pre-driver stage, with intermediate transistors hidden under the small brass heatspreader.
Power Section
In the top left corner of the radio, near the power input leads, is the power supply & audio amplifier section. Clearly visible are the pair of LA4425A 5W audio power amplifier ICs, these drive the speakers on the top of the radio. Either side of these parts are a 7809 & a 7805 – both linear regulators providing +9v & +5v logic supplies respectively. The large TO220 package device is a KIA378R08PI 3A LDO regulator with ON/OFF control, this one outputs +8v. Just visible in the top right corner are the sockets for the speaker connections.
DTMF Circuits
Here are the two ICs for dealing with DTMF tones, they are HM9170 receivers.
Glue Logic
In the corner next to the interface jack, there are some CD4066B Quad Bilateral switches. These make sense since the interface jack has more than a single purpose, these will switch signals depending on what is connected.
RF Section
Here are visible the RF cans for the oscillators, the crystals visible next to the can at the top. The shields are soldered on, so no opening these unfortunately.
Also visible in this image is a CMX138A Audio Scrambler & Sub-Audio Signalling processor. This IC deals with the Voice Inversion Scrambling feature of the radio, & processes the incoming audio before being sent to the modulator.
Output Filter Network
Shown here is the RF output filter network, this radio uses relays for switching instead of PIN diodes, I imagine for cost reasons. The relay closest to the RF output socket has had a slight accident 🙂 This is slated to be replaced soon.
RF Output Jack
Finally, the RF output jack.
Audio Speakers
Here the speakers are shown, attached to the bottom of the top plate. They are both rated 8Ω 1W.
As I’m building up my radio shack, I figured an SWR meter would be a handy addition to my arsenal. This is a cheap Moonraker brand meter, which also will measure RF power. Above the front of the meter is shown, with the moving coil meter movement on the left, calibration adjustment on the right & the forward/reverse power switch.
Meter Rear
For connections, standard SO-259 jacks are provided. The casing is sturdy 1mm steel. This is good, considering it’ll probably take a beating in my portable radio bag.
Directional Coupler PCB
Here the cover is removed, showing some of the internals. The large PCB across the back is the directional coupler.
Directional Coupler Circuit
The SO-259 connectors are bridged with a transmission line, (the track covered in solder in the image below), while there are a pair of sense lines running alongside. This main line is electromagnetically coupled to the two smaller sense lines, which are terminated at one end with resistors, with diodes at the other to rectify the coupled signal.
The termination resistors are sized to match the impedance of the sense lines.
The diodes, having rectified the coupled RF, produce DC voltages representing the value of the forward & reverse RF power. These DC voltages are smoothed with the capacitors.
PCB Marking
The PCB is dated 19-8-2011, so it’s a fairly old design.
Adjustments
Here is visible the back of the user calibration adjuster, with the factory calibration trimmer.
Meter Movement
Back of the meter movement. This is a standard moving coil type. Nothing special.
This meter will soon be modified to accept connection of an external Arduino-based SWR & power meter, which I can calibrate individually for each band.
Stay tuned for that upcoming project.
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