My refrigerant leak detector has one flaw – from the factory it uses C-size alkaline cells. Considering I don’t normally stock these (nothing else I have uses them!), and they’re big & heavy, I decided to do a modification to run the unit from lithium cells instead. This would allow
Continue readingHLD-100+ Refrigerant Leak Detector Lithium Battery Mod
A while back I found myself in the need of an adjustable RF attenuator capable of high-GHz operation. As luck would have it I had an old Spectrum analyser on the shelf at work, which we had retired quite some time ago. Spectrum analysers being quite capable test instruments, I
Continue readingTest Equipment Upcycling – Variable Attenuator Module
Since I inherited an old HP 8753C Network Analyser from work, I figured updating a few things to relatively modern standards would be good. The factory CRT, being 28 years old, is definitely getting a little tired, not to mention being slow to warm up. I read over on the
Well, it’s time for another viewfinder hack! I’ve been after one of these for a while, this is from an early 1980’s era Sony Trinicon camera, and instead of the tiny ½” round CRT display, these have a 1.5″ square CRT – a Matsushita 40CB4. Luckily I managed to score
Continue readingSony HVF-2000P Viewfinder Teardown & Composite Video Hack
Here’s the CRT & it’s drive board removed from the main chassis. Nicely modular this unit, all the individual modules (radio, tape, TV), are separate. This is effectively a TV itself, all the tuner & IF section are onboard, unlike in other vintage units I’ve modified, where the tuner &
Here’s the biggest portable USB powerbank I’ve seen yet – the PowerAdd Pilot X7, this comes with a 20Ah (20,000mAh) capacity. This pack is pretty heavy, but this isn’t surprising considering the capacity. The front of the pack houses the usual USB ports, in this case rated at 3.4A total
Continue readingPowerAdd Pilot X7 20,000mAh Powerbank & Fast Charging Mod
A few months ago I did a teardown on this Anker PowerPort Speed 5 USB charger, but I didn’t get round to detailing the conversion to 12v I had to do, so I’ll get to that now I’ve got a couple more to convert over. Here’s the internals of the
After I did the voltage mod on the APS-231 PSU power supply, I did some reading online & discovered there’s a more powerful PS3 supply – the APS-227. This beast has a 32A +12v rail, with a 3A +5v standby rail. As far as I can tell, these are used
I was recently given a Sony PS3 with a dead disc drive, and since I’m not a console gamer I figured I’d see if there were any handy parts inside. Turns out these units contain a rather nice SMPS, the Sony APS-231 with a high power 12v rail, rated at
The old Panasonic NV-M5 has the standard for the time CRT based viewfinder assembly, which will happily take a composite video signal from an external source. This viewfinder has many more connections than I would have expected, as it has an input for the iris signal, which places a
Here’s a useful tool for testing both power supplies & batteries, a dummy load. This unit is rated up to 60W, at voltages from 1v to 25v, current from 200mA to 9.99A. This device requires a 12v DC power source separate from the load itself, to power the logic circuitry.
As with the previous Sony Watchman hack, injecting a composite video signal into this one is just as easy. I desoldered both the VIF/SIF IC & the digital tuner control (the tuner controller was still injecting it’s indicator into the video circuitry with the IF IC disconnected). Composite video is
Hacking the Sony FD-20 to accept a composite input is easy – the tuner receives the RF transmission, produces an IF, this is then fed into IC201, a Mitsubishi M51364P Video IF Processor. The VIF IC then separates out the composite video signal, which is output on Pin 13 (in
Recently my phone decided it was going to die a battery-related death, and having not found much useful information on the Great Google, (all the information I could find, was hinting at many issues from firmware to a faulty motherboard, nobody seems to have actually done any investigation into similar
As I’ve been posting some photos of decapped ICs lately, I thought I’d share the process I use personally for those that might want to give it a go 😉 The usual method for removing the epoxy package from the silicon is to use hot, concentrated Nitric Acid. Besides the
I’ve been working on something new for the blog, as I have a massive collection of scrap ICs – that is to decap the silicon & get them under a microscope! Here’s the first image, a Texas Instruments part. This has been stitched together from 140 separate images to create
One of the central parts to the Eberspacher-type evaporative burner is the wire mesh screen that surrounds the glowplug, where the incoming fuel is heated to vapour before it’s blown into the combustion chamber & burned. These screens, like glowplugs in the older heaters, are consumable parts and either get
The Eberspacher heaters can be controlled with a single switch, but it’s more convenient to have some temperature control & the option of a timer. Above is an ex-BT 701 series controller, with built in 7-day programmer. Being an ex-BT van version though, it’ll only switch the heater on for
I go camping on a regular basis here in the UK, and often even in summer it’s horribly cold at night in a field somewhere in the middle of Leicestershire. This doesn’t go too well with my severe aversion to being cold. For the past several years I’ve used a
Inkeeping with everything else in my shack being low voltage operated, I had planned from the outset to convert the desoldering station to 12v operation. It turns out this has been the easiest tool to convert in my shack so far. The factory SMPS is a fairly straightforward 18v 12A
On the quest to get things on board replaced that are heavy users of power, the monitor in the main cabin was next. The original CCFL-backlit monitor was very heavy on 12v power, at 5A. This meant falling asleep watching TV would result in severely flattened batteries. Replacement with a
Continue readingViewSonic VA2232W-LED Monitor 12v Conversion
In the past, I’ve used RC type LiPo packs for my mobile power requirements, but these tend to be a bit bulky, since they’re designed for very high discharge current capability – powering large motors in models is a heavy job. I recently came across some Samsung Galaxy Tab 10.1
Compressed air is a rather useful power source, especially when all maintenance is done by the on board crew instead of by boatyards. Screwfix had a good deal on a 50L 3.5CFM air compressor, to save space this has been permanently mounted in a free space & air will be
As supplied, the RTL type tuner dongles are a little fragile, especially when they’ve got a rather heavy coax feeder attached for Ham Radio use. The MCX antenna connectors on the tuner can’t stand up to much abuse, and even the USB plug rips itself from it’s mounts after a
Continue readingQuickie Project: Ruggedising The RTL-SDR Dongle
I almost forgot about this bit of kit, that came with one of my LED torches as a Lithium Ion charger. As I never plug in anything that comes from China via eBay, here’s the teardown & analysis. Here’s the unit itself. It’s very light, and is clearly intended for