Here’s another random bit of RF tech, I’m told this is a wireless energy management sensor, however I wasn’t able to find anything similar on the interwebs. It’s powered by a standard 9v PP3 battery.
Microcontroller
System control is handled by this Microchip PIC18F2520 Enhanced Flash microcontroller, this has an onboard 10-bit ADC & nanoWatt technology according to their datasheet. There’s a 4MHz crystal providing the clock, with a small SOT-23 voltage regulator in the bottom corner. There’s a screw terminal header & a plug header, but I’ve no idea what these would be used for. Maybe connecting an external voltage/current sensor & a programming header? The tactile button I imagine is for pairing the unit with it’s controller.
PCB Bottom
The bottom of the PCB is almost entirely taken up by a Radiocrafts RC1240 433MHz RF transceiver. Underneath there’s a large 10kΩ resistor, maybe a current transformer load resistor, and a TCLT1600 optocoupler. Just from the opto it’s clear this unit is intended to interface in some way to the mains grid. The antenna is connected at top right, in a footprint for a SMA connector, but this isn’t fitted.
The rear has the specifications, laser-marked into the plastic. The serial numbers are just sticky labels though, and will come off easily with use.
Contec CMS-50F
This is the Contec CMS-50F wrist-mounted pulse oximeter unit, which has the capability to record data continuously to onboard memory, to be read out at a later time via a USB-Serial link. There is software supplied with the unit for this purpose, although it suffers from the usual Chinese quality problems. The hardware of this unit is rather well made, the firmware has some niggles but is otherwise fully functional, however the PC software looks completely rushed, is of low quality & just has enough functionality to kind-of pass as usable.
Top Cover Removed
A total of 4 screws hold the casing together, once these are removed the top comes off. The large colour OLED display covers nearly all of the board here. The single button below is the user interface. The connection to the probe is made via the Lemo-style connector on the lower right.
Lithium Cell
Power is provided by a relatively large lithium-ion cell, rated at 1.78Wh.
Main Processor
All the heavy lifting work of the LCD, serial comms, etc are handled by this large Texas Instruments microcontroller, a MSP430F247. The clock crystal is just to the left, with the programming pins. I’m not sure of the purpose of the small IC in the top left corner, I couldn’t find any reference to the markings.
Aux Processor
The actual pulse oximetry sensor readings seem to be dealth with by a secondary microcontroller, a Texas Instruments M430F1232 Mixed-Signal micro. This has it’s own clock crystal just underneath. The connections to the probe socket are to the right of this µC, while the programming bus is broken out to vias just above. The final devices on this side of the board are 3 linear regulators, supplying the rails to run all the logic in this device.
Main PCB Rear
The rear of the PCB has the SiLabs CL2102 USB-Serial interface IC, the large Winbond 25X40CLNIG 512KByte SPI flash for recording oximetry data, and some of the power support components. The RTC crystal is also located here at the top of the board. Up in the top left corner is a Texas Instruments TPS61041 Boost converter, with it’s associated components. This is probably supplying the main voltage for the OLED display module.
Here’s a piece of medical equipment that in recent years has become extremely cheap, – a Pulse Oximeter, used to determine the oxygen saturation in the blood. These can be had on eBay for less than £15.
Powered On
This one has a dual colour OLED display, a single button for powering on & adjusting a few settings. These cheap Oximeters do have a bit of a cheap plastic feel to them, but they do seem to work pretty well.
Pulse Oximeter
After a few seconds of being applied to a finger, the unit gives readings that apparently confirm that I’m alive at least. 😉 The device takes a few seconds to get a baseline reading & calibrate the sensor levels.
Main PCB Top
The plastic casing is held together with a few very small screws, but comes apart easily. here is the top of the main board with the OLED display panel. There appears to be a programming header & a serial port on the board as well. I’ll have to poke at these pads with a scope to see if any useful data is on the pins.
Main PCB Bottom
The bottom of the board has all the main components of the system. The microcontroller is a STM32F03C8T6, these are very common in Chinese gear these days. There’s a small piezo beeper & the main photodiode detector is in the centre.
There is an unpopulated IC space on the board with room for support components. I suspect this would be for a Bluetooth radio, as there’s a space at the bottom left of the PCB with no copper planes – this looks like an antenna mounting point. (The serial port on the pads is probably routed here, for remote monitoring).
At the top left are a pair of SGM3005 Dual SPDT analogue switches. These will be used to alternate the red & IR LEDs on the other side of the shell.
A 4-core FFC goes off to the other side of the shell, bringing power from the battery & supplying the sensing LEDs.
Battery Compartment
Power is supplied by a pair of AAA cells in the other shell.
Dual LED
The sensor LEDs are tucked in between the cells, this dual-diode package has a 660nm red LED & a 940nm IR LED.
Another random teardown from the junk box time!
Here’s an old Motorola DECT landline phone, no use to me as I’ve not used a landline for many years.
Battery Compartment
Not much on the back, other than the battery compartment for a pair of AAA rechargables. The base unit contains the charger.
Main PCB
Here’s the main PCB removed from it’s casing. There’s not really much going on, one of the main ICs, which is probably a microcontroller, is a COB device, so no part numbers from there. There’s a row of pads for programming the device at the factory. The RF section is on a dedicated IC, a DE19RF19ZCNC from DSP Group. I couldn’t find much on this part, but it’s one of a range of DECT/VoIP DSP devices.
Base Unit PCB
Inside the base unit is a similar board, just without the keypad. Main microcontroller is again a COB device, the RF IC is under the shield.
Main Chipset
Removing the shield reveals the same IC as in the handset, only this PCB has a pair of antennas.
When I ordered the tiny USB soldering iron, I decided a proper iron upgrade would be a good idea. Looking around for something that didn’t require AC mains power turned up the TS100, a Chinese design, that unusually is actually very good! Above is the handle itself, with it’s small OLED display & two operation buttons.
This iron is controlled by a STM32 ARM microcontroller, the firmware & schematics are completely open-source.
DC Input Jack / USB Port
The bottom end of the iron has the main DC input jack, designed with laptop chargers in mind (DC input range from 10v-24v). Above that is the micro USB port for programming.
Heating Element Socket
The iron tips slot into the other end, many different tip types & shapes are available. The one supplied was the simple conical tip.
Standby Screen
Plugging the iron into some power gets a standby screen – it doesn’t just start heating immediately, for safety.
Heating
The left hand button starts the heater, which on a 24v input voltage gets to operating temperature well within 10 seconds.
Temperature Stable
The right hand screen icon changes when the temperature has stabilized. The control PCB has an integrated accelerometer, leaving the iron hot for a few minutes triggers a timeout & it powers down. Once picked up again, the heater instantly restarts.
The operating temperature is adjustable with the pair of buttons, from 100°C to 400°C.
Different Bits
Here’s a selection of bits for the iron. The design is very similar to the Hakko T15 series of irons, but these are a much shorter version. Like the Hakko versions, the actual tips aren’t replaceable, once the bit burns out, the entire assembly is replaced.
TS100 Soldering Iron
Here’s the iron fully assembled. The entire device is about the same length as just the heating element from a Hakko T15!
I recently dug out my other card printer to fit it with a 12v regulator, (it’s 24v at the moment), and figured I’d do a teardown post while I had the thing in bits.
This is a less industrial unit than my Zebra P330i, but unlike the Zebra, it has automatic duplexing, it doesn’t have Ethernet connectivity though.
Unlike domestic printers, which are built down to a price, these machines are very much built up to a spec, and feature some very high quality components.
Naked Printer
Here’s the mechanism with the cowling removed. This is the main drive side of the printer, with the main drive stepper at left, ribbon take-up spool motor lower right, and the duplex module stepper motors at far right.
Main Motor Drive
The main drive motor runs the various rollers in the card path through a pair of synchronous belts, shown here.
Main Stepper
The stepper itself is a quality ball-bearing Sanyo Denki bipolar motor.
Main Stepper Driver
Electrical drive is provided to the stepper with a L6258EX DMOS universal motor driver. This chip can also drive DC motors as well as steppers.
Ribbon Supply Spool
Here is the encoder geared onto the ribbon supply spool. This is used to monitor the speed the ribbon is moving relative to the card.
Printer Top
Here’s a top view through the printer, the blue roller on the left cleans the card as it’s pulled from the feeder, the gold coloured spool to it’s right is the ribbon supply reel. The cooling fan on the right serves to stop the print head overheating during heavy use.
Spool Take Up Motor
The spool take-up reel is powered by another very high quality motor, a Buhler DC gearmotor. These printers are very heavily over engineered!
This motor drives the spool through an O-Ring belt, before the gear above. This allows the drive to slip in the event the ribbon jams, preventing it from breaking.
Duplex Unit Stepper Drivers
The pair of steppers that operate the duplexing unit are driven by a separate board, with a pair of L6219DS bipolar stepper driver ICs. There are also a couple of opto-sensors on this board for the output hopper.
Main Control PCB
All the mechanisms of the printer are controlled from this main PCB, which handles all logic & power supply functions. Sections on the board are unpopulated, these would be for the Ethernet interface, smart card programming & magstripe programming.
Main CPU
The brains of the operation is this ColdFire MCF5208CVM166 32-bit microprocessor. It features 16KB of RAM, 8KB of cache, DMA controller, 3 UARTs, SPI, 10/100M Ethernet and low power management. This is a fairly powerful processor, running at 166MHz.
It’s paired with an external 128Mbit SDRAM from Samsung, and a Spansion 8Mbit boot sector flash, for firmware storage.
USB Interface & Power Input
Here the USB interface IC is located. It’s a USBN9604 from Texas Instruments, this interfaces with the main CPU via serial.
I’ve always found programming repeaters into the UV-5R manually a bit of an arse, especially since the manual is pretty poor & very concise. Ringway Manchester have done a very good video detailing a simple way to get this done without a computer & most importantly, without any headaches!
After running on handies for all of my Ameteur Radio life, I figured it was time for a new radio, this time a base station/mobile rig, & after some looking around I decided on the Wouxun KG-UV950P.
Shown below is the radio as delivered:
Wouxun Boxed
This radio has the capability to transmit quad-band, on 6m, 10m, 2m & 70cm. It also has the capability to receive on no fewer than eight bands. Also included in the feature set is airband receive, & broadcast FM receive.
TX power is up to 50W on 2m, 40W on 70cm, & 10W on 6m/10m.
Opened
For once with a Chinese piece of electronic equipment, the manual is very well printed, and in very good English.
Radio Operating
Here is the radio in operation, connected to my 65A 12v power supply. I have the radio set here monitoring a couple of the local 70cm repeaters.
The display is nice & large – easy to see at a glance which station you’re tuned to. The backlight is also software settable to different colours.
Status indicators on the top edge of the display can be a bit difficult to see unless the panel is directly facing the user though, not to mention that they are rather small.
This radio is true dual-watch, in that both VFOs can be receiving at the same time, this is effected by a pair of speakers on the top panel:
Speakers
The left VFO speaker is smaller than the right, so the sound levels differ slightly, but overall sound quality is excellent. There is also provision on the back of the unit to connect external speakers.
The dual volume controls on the right hand bottom corner of the control panel are fairly decent, if a little twitchy at times. There is also a fair amount of distortion on the audio at the higher volume levels.
The controls themselves are potentiometers, but the controller appears to read the setpoint with an ADC – this means that if the control is set to just the right point, the selected level will jump around on the display & never settle down.
The radio itself is built from a solid aluminium casting, mostly for heatsinking of the main RF output stage MOSFETs. This gives the radio a very rugged construction.
A small fan is provided on the rear for cooling when required. This can be set in software to either be constantly running, (it’s pretty much silent, so this is advantageous), or only run when in TX mode. The fan will also automatically come on when a high internal temperature is detected.
Hand Mic
Here is the microphone. Like the main unit of the radio this is also very solidly built, fits nicely in the hand & the PTT has a nice easy action, which helps to prevent straining hands while keeping the TX keyed.
Conveniently, all of the controls required to operate the radio are duplicated on this mic, along with a control lock switch, & backlighting for the buttons.
Another Speaker
Another output speaker is placed in the back of the mic. This one can be activated through the menu system, to either use the main body speakers, the mic mounted one, or both.
A mounting hook for the mic is provided to attach to any convenient surface.
Radio Back
Here’s the back of the radio, with some of the big heatsink fins, the fan in the centre. To the left is the PL259 RF output, this looks to be a high quality Teflon insulated one. On the right are the power input leads & the external speaker outputs.
External Speaker Sockets
The external speaker connections are via 3.5mm jacks. I haven’t yet tested this feature.
Remote Mounting Plate
The control panel of this radio is detachable from the main body, and a pair of adaptors are provided. This either allows the radio display to be angled upwards toward the user, set parallel, or even mounted remotely. A control extension cable is provided to allow the main body to be mounted a fair distance away.
External Interface Connectors
On the left of the radio is the PC control & programming port, & the mic connector. Wouxun *really* like RJ-45 connectors, they’ve used them for everything on this radio.
Also visible here is the tilted faceplate adaptor.
The supplied software to program the radio, while functional, is absolutely horrific. Hopefully someone will add support for this radio into CHIRP. Anything would be an improvement in this area.
Everything considered, I like this radio. It’s very solidly built, easy to use, and sounds brilliant.
TX audio is great, (or so my other contacts tell me).
Unsurprisingly, the unit gets warm while transmitting, however on high power, it does get uncomfortably warm, and the built in fan does little in the way of helping when a long QSO is in progress. I may remedy this at some stage with a more powerful fan. A little more airflow would do wonders.
If the programming software was built as well as the radio, I’d have zero serious complaints.
At full power, the radio pulls ~10A from the power supply, at 12.9v DC.
As for the antenna I’m currently using, it’s a Diamond X30, mounted on a modified PA speaker stand, at ~30 feet above ground. The feeder is high quality RG-213.
TX Antenna
When I manage to get the set disconnected, a partial teardown will be posted, with some intimate details about the internals. Stay tuned!
A break from normal programming now to show a weekend canal cruise on the Macclesfield canal. Going from Marple to Poynton & returning later in the afternoon. This video was shot with the Raspberry Pi waterproofed with the PiCE From Elson Designs.
Here is an old chemical dosing system for industrial washing machines. These units are 4-pump models, with dual pumpheads. The motors are reversed to operate alternate pumps in the same head.
Label
From 2006, this is a fairly old unit, and made in the UK.
CPU Board
Main controller PCB, with interface to the power electronics via the ribbon cable, an external serial port for programming to it’s left. Powered by an ST microcontroller. The LCD is below this board.
PCU & Driver PCBs
Main power supply, sense input & motor driver boards. The PSU outputs +5v, +12v & +24v. The inputs on the lower left connect to the washing machine & trigger the pumps via the programming on the CPU. The motors are driven by L6202 H-Bridge drivers from ST.
Motor Assembly
Motor & gearbox assembly on the back of the pumphead. These are 24v DC units with 80RPM gearboxes.
UPDATE:
As it seems to be difficult to find, here is the user manual for this unit:
[download id=”5557″]
This is a device designed to reset Epson brand ink cartridges that are reportedly out of ink, so they again report full to the printer Here is the front of the unit, with the guide for attaching to a cartridge.
PCB Back
Back of the device removed. 3 button cells provide power to the PCB. Indicator LED sticks out of the top of the device for reset confirmation.
Row of pads on far left edge of the PCB are presumably a programming header for the uC on the other side of the board.
PCB Front
Here is the front of the PCB, main feature being the grid of pogo pins to connect to the cartridge chip. IC on lower right of that is a MSP430F2131 uController, a Texas Instruments part.
The IC directly to the left of the pogo pin bed is a voltage regulator, to step down the ~4.5v of the batteries down to the ~3.3v that the uC requires.
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